From the security door at the entrance to the interior doors that refresh a home: what the security classes mean, the difference between cylinder and defender, and how replacement is done.
Security doors are classified by burglary-resistance classes (RC classes / classes 1 to 6): the higher the class, the more the door resists attack. They are not burglar-proof; they are a time barrier.
For most homes, the middle classes are the sensible range, balancing security, weight and cost. Let's be clear about one point first: the door alone is not enough. The frame and counter-frame, how it is anchored to the wall, the lock and the cylinder are part of the protection: a weak point wastes the rest.
Hinged doors (the classic swing type), sliding doors — into the wall or on the wall — and folding doors for small rooms. The choice depends on the space, the use and the style of the home.
Pocket sliding doors need a counter-frame inside the wall — feasible during renovation; surface sliding doors also fit without works. Flush-to-the-wall doors and panelled models fit a classic style, while glass doors open up the light — check compatibility with the wall and the budget.
Often only one part can be repaired or upgraded: cylinder, mechanism or handle. If the door is sound, repair is convenient; we visit and check the parts and the condition of the door.
Signs not to ignore: the key turns stiffly or sticks, the handle has play, the door only closes when you lift the handle, or the cylinder protrudes. If a component is worn, it is not worth waiting: a broken lock can turn a simple repair into an emergency call-out.
If instead the frame and panel are deformed or the security level is outdated, we will tell you and assess replacement on the dedicated page.
For most flats the middle classes (often referred to as class 3) are assessed, because they balance resistance, weight and cost. The right choice depends on the floor, access from outside and the lock fitted with it: we define it at the survey, without selling you the highest class 'regardless'.
Yes, in many cases the cylinder is replaced — for example after moving house, or to switch to an anti-manipulation cylinder — keeping the door and mechanism if they are in good condition. If instead the lock is an old-generation double-bit type, converting to a European cylinder is often worth assessing: we check it on your door.
Usually yes: the old door and frame come out and the new kit is fitted into the existing opening, with architraves covering the joint. The exceptions are pocket sliding doors, which need the counter-frame in the wall, and very out-of-square openings, which need adaptation: both cases show up at the survey.
Tell us which door it is, where it is and what doesn't work: we will tell you straight away whether repairing or replacing makes sense.